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I lately had the prospect to pattern a spread of Kopke Ports with winemaker Carla Tiago on her go to to Boston from Portugal. I used to be excited to see that she introduced some well-aged white ports, that are unusual within the U.S., in addition to Colheita Port, which is single classic Tawny Port that has been aged in wooden for at least seven years earlier than bottling, and normally for much longer. She moreover opened a couple of different particular bottles, together with two 50-year-old wines.
When making an attempt Colheita Ports it is very important search for two dates on the bottle. On the entrance you discover the yr that the Port was put in oak casks. On the again you possibly can see the yr that it was bottled. Which means that two totally different Colheita Ports from any specific yr could possibly be very totally different, relying on when every was taken out of wooden and the way lengthy they then aged within the bottle.
Ms. Tiago jogged my memory that Tawny Ports, together with all Colheita Ports will be saved so long as 5 months after opening if they’re refrigerated. It is because Tawny Ports and Colheita Ports are already oxidized and aren’t considerably modified by being launched to air. This makes Port a terrific worth since they are often loved over time. It’s fantastic to have a small glass of Port with dessert (or as dessert), and a single bottle can final some time. This isn’t the case with Classic Ports, that are aged completely within the bottle and can oxidize after opening. Which means that Classic Ports can’t be saved for lengthy, even when refrigerated.
Let’s dive in to this unimaginable assortment.
2003 Kopke White Colheita Port – This was the Port we began with, and it’s a stunner. Bottled in 2021, it pours a lovely golden orange. The nostril and the palate provide honey and dried fruit in addition to softer notes of ginger and molasses. This Port is medium candy and has an exquisite, thick mouthfeel coupled with vigorous acidity and a protracted, attractive end. I don’t know if I’ve tasted a greater White Port. A / $85
Kopke Tawny Port 20 Years Previous – Golden rust coloured, this Port reveals dried plums and medium sweetness. Extra complexity seems midpalate, because it grows spicy and reveals excessive acidity. This can be a good instance of a 20-year tawny. A- / $70
1999 Kopke Colheita Port – Bottled in 2022. Gold-tinted purple in coloration, this Port reveals gentle sweetness coupled with caramel and bitter cherry notes in addition to excessive acidity. It’s a distinctive and gratifying Colheita Port, however I most popular others extra. B+ / $71
1985 Kopke Colheita Port – Bottled in 2022. One other stunner. Mild brown and purple within the glass, this Port has a mild nostril however a daring, advanced palate displaying deep, built-in notes of caramel, toffee, pecan, a contact of espresso, and a light-weight natural character. It additionally has an exquisite mouthfeel, mixing medium sweetness and excessive acidity with a protracted end. A / $100
Kopke White Port 50 Years Previous – When White Port and Tawny Port age this lengthy, the colour of each grow to be surprisingly related. Solely by placing the 2 50-year Ports subsequent to at least one one other may I see which was White Port and which was Tawny. Not like whiskey, the age on the bottle represents the common age of the Ports blended to make this wine, and never the youngest age. However that is very outdated White Port, and definitely the oldest I’ve ever tried. Rusty purple with a light-weight inexperienced tinge, this outdated White Port is surprisingly vigorous. The nostril reveals intense raisin, and the palate presents advanced notes of caramel coupled with toasted orange citrus, excessive acidity, and a lovely end that goes on perpetually. A / $190 (375 ml)
Kopke Tawny Port 50 Years Previous – This Port can be golden rusty purple however with a light-weight brown tinge. The nostril and palate are very expressive, displaying built-in notes of burnt caramel and raisin, with the wine providing medium acidity and a protracted, gratifying end. The liveliness of the 50-year Tawny Port and White Port shocked me and resulted, Ms. Tiago defined, from the wine’s acidity, which offers glorious construction even after so a few years in wooden. For Port followers, they’re each value searching for out. A / $290