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The primary bonded Old Fitzgerald launch for 2022 is right here, and it’s an previous one: At 17 years of age, it’s the oldest Previous Fitz within the collection to this point, the subsequent oldest being a 16 yr previous that was solely made out there at Heaven Hill’s distillery in 2020.
At 17 years of age, I got here into this expertise anticipating an enormous punch of woody barrel char, however was shocked to search out issues designed surprisingly on the contrary. The nostril is sharp, heavy with notes of cherry and an intense fragrance character, with a racy-spicy sweetness that makes me consider Pop Rocks. The palate is once more extremely candy to the purpose the place I’d say it’s sugary. Once more, it’s wholly surprising given this whiskey’s age, and tough to parse, with notes of pie crust, custard, and intense sesame — like a dessert you may get at a dim sum restaurant. There’s a perfumed, floral factor right here that turns a bit soapy because it throws out notes of vanilla en path to the end, the place touches of jasmine and lilac linger. Once more, the conclusion is intense with sweetness, granulated sugar notes threatening to ship you straight to the dentist.
A a lot totally different whiskey than Previous Fitz has been placing out these days, and whereas I’m all for change, one thing right here has gone a little bit wonky.
B / $85 / heavenhill.com