Food & Drink

I Miss the Donut Shop

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However the donuts by no means stopped. Takeout. Curbside. Drive-thru.

The present go-to comes from Stonington, behind Sea Swirl, the place once I was a child on summer season nights Pa took us for clam bellies and fried haddock. Ketchup. Vinegar on the facet.

The day we buried him on the financial institution of the Mystic River, after the bugler performed faucets and the vets gave their blank-shot salute, I ordered half a dozen — cinnamon and sugar — and waited on the picnic tables. Sea Swirl was boarded up for winter. A person in a masks introduced the field to my trunk. I thanked him and took a drive: Disregarded of the lot, proper to the river highway by the Seaport and the cider mill. Up the hill and previous my pal Pat’s guardian’s home, the highschool, the ballfields the place I by no means hit house runs, the place Dad coached first, the place Pa all the time cheered in his folding chair.

There’s an all-timer in Kittery, Maine. A piped cruller. Eggy and lightweight. Dipped in sticky glaze. I can take down six in a sitting. We received them final summer season — and can this yr too, order on-line, choose your time, and your donuts seem on a folding desk exterior, eat in some barren car parking zone — however I miss the road, the additional scorching latte, the odor of citrus and fennel seed, the sound of spattering breakfast meat.

We — Dad and me — took Pa there as soon as. When he noticed the road and commotion inside, he determined he’d wait within the automotive. Espresso with milk and a sugar, he mentioned. And convey again one thing candy.

As quickly as he smelled them he mentioned he’d have one now, that he didn’t need to wait. We ate crullers pulled off on a facet road.

The final Father’s Day I spent with Pa was two years again. I’ve it on video. My spouse was 12 weeks pregnant. We wrote our information in a card. On laborious days I replay the footage. Pa reads the word aloud. He all the time learn playing cards aloud. Then he stops. He seems to be up knowingly, smile extensive as watermelon. Whoa, hey, he calls out into the day.

The morning after our son was born, he rang and left a message. Hello to you and your woman, he mentioned. And that little child, he seems to be fairly good to me.

A heat morning final winter, we took a dozen to his grave. The clouds have been low and grey. To the north was the bridge and the comfortable thrum of the freeway. I wore my son on my entrance and informed him about his nice grandparents, how they lived by this river for 35 years and have been collectively twice that.

It’s true: a donut made issues higher.

However I miss two donuts most.

Once I was a boy, Pa piled my bicycle and a basketball into the pickup and drove us to the city park. This was in Noank, not removed from the mouth of the river. Pa performed school hoops at UConn and nonetheless beloved to shoot. However first we walked to Carson’s, the place we sat on the counter and I questioned a few jelly or honey-dipped, the place Pa took his quaint and low to go. He eliminated the highest from the cup on the bench and dunked his donut in whereas I tore laps on my bike across the tennis courts. As soon as he completed, he confirmed me how, when he was younger, they hit foul photographs by squatting down and lobbing the basketball underhand. Then he dropped three in a row the trendy approach.

The opposite comes from a long-closed store on Colonel Ledyard Freeway. Now it’s a packie. That is beside the ironmongery store and nursery. On half days or early dismissals when Pa received me from college, we headed to the middle and stopped earlier than the roads have been coated with snow.

We discovered a seat with an deserted paper. He handed me the funnies, which I pretended to learn however by no means received.

So how ‘bout them woman Huskies, Pa would say.

An outdated timer mentioned he turned it off on the half.

However they move it so clean and quick, Pa mentioned.

I questioned why he didn’t point out his basketball previous. The counter gal refilled his cup.

UConn beat Baylor final night time. On his early morning stroll at the moment, Dad ran into one among Pa’s buddies from the neighborhood. He would’ve beloved that recreation, the outdated buddy mentioned.

As he tells me this, it happens to me it’s not the donut store I miss. It’s the journeys to the dump. The woodpiles and coffees on the breezeway. Extra, it’s how he visited her on daily basis, unfold a serviette in her lap — she’s gone now too, buried beside him by the river — and broke the donut in two, so they may share a meal, or at the very least a deal with, one thing sticky and candy, the best way they did earlier than.

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