Food & Drink

Bar Review: Kokomo, Williamsburg, New York City

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Typically, you simply have to get away. And when a tropical paradise appears out of attain, we frequently discover ourselves looking for the next-best proxy. For New York Metropolis residents in search of a extra momentary escape, Williamsburg’s Kokomo is a worthwhile consideration — at the least when cravings name for sweeter drinks and bolder, spicier dishes.

Let’s get proper to the cocktails, although the institution’s structure and vibe are extra geared to dinner and drinks versus simply the latter. Beverage Director Rael Petit’s menu facilities round recent juice, they usually definitely ship.

The Ache Killer takes a base of coconut cream and punches issues up with each orange pineapple juices, however a heavy nutmeg end truly cuts what may in any other case be overwhelming sweetness. The Tiki Aperol Spritz is far tarter than you’d anticipate and carries nicely by means of a complete appetizer course. The Good Vibez — topped with a customized “avenue artwork” show of Angostura Bitters — melds passionfruit with egg white for one thing that borders on dessert in a glass.

Extra spectacular was “We Limin’,” which finishes Grey Goose, St. Germain, lime juice, and guava cordial with a heavy crack of black pepper. It’s a sensible selection to begin off the night that received’t coat the palate an excessive amount of originally.

General, the cocktail menu focuses on the candy, often with simply sufficient tart, bitter, or smoky to steadiness issues out. Nonetheless, there are a couple of cocktails that can border on too sugary for some. Kokomo’s drinks menu is good for drinkers with a candy tooth, however most patrons could have an gratifying expertise in the event that they tempo issues a bit slower than regular all through a meal. (The sweetness also can disguise some deceptively robust drinks.)

For meals, anticipate hearty and healthful, however not overly wealthy. The crispy fish tacos had a welcomely gentle end, with an ideal slaw to hold them by means of. The braised oxtail is a standout, with a fancy stew that opens up extra with each chew. And the rice & beans — a traditional composition served with quite a few dishes — are value a re-order if you end up nonetheless hungry. They’re extra flavorful than anticipated, however not as heavy as many variations you’ll discover in and round NYC.

Lastly, a streamlined dessert menu usually provides diners simply a few choices. Professional tip: Select the rum raisin bread pudding. Although cocktails at Kokomo are gratifying sufficient, and the dinner menu holds as much as different Williamsburg locations, the bread pudding is what’s going to drive many return visits. It’s simply among the many prime three variations I’ve ever had.

Kokomo is positioned at 65 Kent Ave. in Brooklyn, New York. They’re open Tuesday-Thursday from 4pm-11pm and Friday-Sunday from 11am -11pm.

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