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At present we current a set of Sicilian wines, all a part of a (Zoom-based) tasting organized by Assovini Sicilia, an affiliation of 91 Sicilian wineries that’s designed to advertise the numerous wines of this area. A complete of 10 wines had been tasted, all made with indigenous grapes. Able to dig in? Let’s go.
2020 Mandrarossa Costadune Perricone Rosè Terre Siciliane IGT – This rose of syrah appears impossibly shiny and fruity, a enjoyable exploration of peaches, lemon curd, and hints of coconut and banana — none of which connotes syrah within the slightest. That fruit continues effectively into the end, shiny with notes of honey and a delicate layer of spice. A giant crowd-pleaser to make sure. A- / $16
2018 Planeta Etna Bianco DOC – Really a bottling of carricante, per the again label. Plenty of melon, threaded with lemon notes and a rush of saline, which collectively give this wine a crisp and shiny character. The physique slowly develops to showcase a frivolously creamy texture, the saltiness brightening up an already energetic expertise even additional. We final noticed a reasonably completely different expression within the 2014 vintage. This one’s a dazzler. A / $25
2020 Tasca d’Almerita Tenuta Regaleali Buonsenso Catarratto Sicilia DOC – 100% catarratto, this wine is full-bodied and wealthy with notes of melon, a shiny lemon observe perking up because it develops on the palate. The wine settles right into a groove of oxidized fruit, ending on notes of tea leaf and a touch of spice. Versatile. A- / $22
2019 Baglio di Pianetto Terre Siciliane Frappato IGT – Boldly fruity with notes of strawberry and cherry, this can be a light-bodied wine that pours on sweetness, with mild notes of mint and contemporary greenery because the end unfolds. A easy wine with just about no tannin evident in any respect, it feels a bit like Sicily’s reply to Beaujolais Nouveau. Innocent. B+ / $14
2020 Gorghi Tondi Dume’ Frappato Sicilia DOC – Vibrant strawberry leads the best way on this effusive however simple wine, its contemporary fruit notes impregnated with notes of mint and a few orange peel notes. Underdeveloped however impossibly sunny in character. B / $23
2019 Di Giovanna Vurria Nerello Mascalese IGT Terre Siciliane – Daring however not overwhelming, the reasonably tannic wine fires up notes of tanned leather-based and a balsamic edge, ending on a brambly blackberry observe. The wine improves with time in glass, however retains its earthy edge for the length. B+ / $22
2016 Terra Costantino Contrada Blandano Etna Rosso DOC Riserva – A mix of nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio. Dusky and brooding, this savory expertise is on the flat facet, with notes of turned earth and a few barnyard dominating earlier than a observe of unripe plum, touched with cloves and graphite components, comes into focus. The end feels underdeveloped, missing some much-needed acidity and brief on fruit. B- / $34
2019 Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG – Cerasuolo di Vittoria is the one DOCG-status wine on Sicily, represented by a mix of nero d’avola and frappato. This expression doesn’t knock it out of the park, dusty and beefy up high, with balsamic and raspberry notes rising briefly order. The 2 components don’t gel completely, the end winding up in a fitful in-betweenness. C+ / $20
2018 Valle dell’Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG Classico – One other large, burly wine, this expression is a little more refined than Planeta’s bottling, and although it’s heavy with forest flooring and balsamic notes, it has extra of a way of class, it’s nonetheless an aggressive, brooding expertise. Notes of dried figs, a bit leathery, and raisin components give this an appassimento character, the end seeing some notes of crimson flowers because it develops. Issues begin off a bit powerful, however the conclusion is partaking and wealthy. B+ / $25
2018 Donnafugata Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria DOC – The famed muscat-based passito wine from the close by island of Pantelleria; the final time we reviewed it was in 2010. A contact extra Maderized than I recall, this 2018 bottling has a lightweight balsamic character to the effusive peach, apricot, and earthier honey components within the combine. Much less overtly candy and extra oxidized than I’ve encountered in prior bottlings, nevertheless it’s nonetheless a enjoyable solution to wrap up the night. B+ / $40 (375ml)
2020 Mandrarossa Costadune Perricone Rosè Terre Siciliane IGT
$16
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