Food & Drink

Review: Tequila Don Julio Ultima Reserva

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Don Julio dropped two luxe expressions this yr, end result with a rerelease of Don Julio Ultima Reserva, its top-end bottling which was initially launched in 2021. We missed spherical one however have been excited to see a second small launch of this 36-month previous additional anejo hit the market in time for the 2022 vacation season. Nothing appears to have modified with the recipe for this extra-rare expression, which sees the tequila aged for 36 months in oak and completed in Madeira wine casks. Don Julio says it makes use of a solera type for the growing old of this tequila, but it surely’s unclear precisely how that works alongside the 36-month previous age notation.

Why “Ultima”? It’s made with the ultimate agave harvest planted by Don Julio González (who died 10 years in the past) and his household in 2006.

Seems, the solera particulars don’t actually matter. That is an distinctive tequila that deserves instant consideration — albeit additionally an equally outsized monetary outlay.

Beginning issues off, the nostril doesn’t draw back from agave. That is no syrupy additional anejo that’s all sugar, however reasonably a brighter exploration of each the earth and the barrel, with notes of caramel, candy tea, lemon cake, and coconut all making for a dazzlingly complicated fragrant combine — all infused with peppery agave.

The palate shines, showcasing cinnamon cookies and brown sugar — nearly like churros at instances — although once more the agave retains every part in stability. A robust vein of vanilla and chocolate each construct because the end, reminding me of chocolate mousse at instances, although dusted so gently with notes of white pepper. It’s a heady expertise however by no means a heavy one, and it’s one of the crucial approachable and balanced additional anejos I’ve ever encountered. In a class the place stability is commonly elusive, Don Julio nails it with this particular launch.

80 proof. 4,000 circumstances produced. NOM 1449.

A / $499 / donjulio.com [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS]

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