Food & Drink

Review: Pluma Negra Mezcal, Complete Lineup

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Pluma Negra is a brand new mezcal model out of Oaxaca’s San Juan del Rio, the place the Hernandez household has been producing mezcal for 45 years. Maestro Mezcalero Rodolfo Hernandez is “a 3rd technology Mezcalero who makes use of time honored traditions to create Pluma Negra — animal drawn tahona to crush the maguey, pine barrel fermentation, and double distillation in copper pots.”

Pluma Negra contains 4 expressions comprising three completely different mezcal varieties: espadin, tobala, and tepeztate. Two expressions of espadin agave can be found, bottled at differing proof ranges. All 4 are unaged.

Let’s give them a strive.

Pluma Negra Mezcal Espadin 40% (Silver Label) – Aggressive notes of smoked meats dominate the nostril, with a pungent scorched grass character I don’t normally encounter with espadin mezcals. No actual fruit character is obvious right here. The palate continues the theme, boldly beefy, closely smoky, and overwhelmingly vegetal. Nice mezcal has a beautiful steadiness of smoke, spice, and fruit. Right here, the scales are tipped completely to the foremost, and the expertise simply by no means livens up. 80 proof. C+ / $74

Pluma Negra Mezcal Espadin 48% (Black Label) –  At 8% larger abv, the image on this espadin mezcal is a bit completely different. A stronger alcohol content material perks up some well-hidden notes of spice on the nostril — although the touches of cinnamon are filtered by loads of overbearing smoke. On the palate, a extra upbeat physique is obvious: A number of pepper begins issues off, however it will definitely opens as much as exhibit a much bigger almond ingredient and a few brown butter notes. Prolonged and more and more brilliant on the end, it finds notes of lemon and spiced cake on the conclusion. It’s nonetheless a rocky expertise at instances, however there’s clearly a a lot better sense of steadiness than within the 40% providing. 96 proof. B / $79

Pluma Negra Mezcal Tobala – Right here we see Pluma Negra on the prime of its recreation, utilizing tobala agave to create a spirit with much less overt smokiness and a maritime observe that had me enthusiastic about Islay Scotch. A number of citrus and saline give the palate a spicy edge, although your complete affair is well-balanced, the general impact being a mezcal that’s softer and cleaner than both espadin expression. Mint, chocolate, and a chewy marshmallow observe give the end some sweetness. Altogether it’s a fancy and worthwhile mezcal, with a lingering perfume that enchants the senses. 96 proof. A- / $158

Pluma Negra Mezcal Tepeztate – This rarely-seen agave selection makes for an uncommon mezcal, with a nostril that’s sharp thanks largely to its excessive alcohol degree. Notes of iodine give it a salty aroma. Pallet is rustic and punchy, salted licorice being the predominant taste. There’s a robust spiciness and a black pepper ingredient right here, although the end percolates some fruit within the type of plum and purple berry notes. It’s an odd mezcal, however price tasting if you happen to encounter it. 104 proof. B+ / $173

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Pluma Negra Mezcal Tepeztate

$173

Ranking

8.5/10

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